Creamy mash, venison stew: James Knappett’s winter potato recipes

hese are some of my favourite winter recipes to cook at home for my family, and it’s no great surprise that they all feature potato in some form or other. They’re comfort food at its finest, though I’ve elevated them a little to provide a taste of what to expect when we open the Upstairs restaurant at The George in Fitzrovia, London, at the end of February. They’re all also pretty quick to prep, and not at all labour-intensive to cook, so are ideal for a weekend when you’re craving something simple but hearty.

Venison hot pot

James Knappett’s potato winter warmers: venison hotpot

Prep 20 min

Soak Overnight

Cook 4 hr 30 min

Serves 4

8 large prunes (agen, for preference), stoned

90ml good brandy or calvados

2 tbsp vegetable oil

400g venison shoulder or shank, boned and diced

2 brown onions, peeled and diced

2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

75ml red wine (ie, ½ glass)

1 litre good beef stock, homemade or bought in

2 rosemary sprigs

3 juniper berries, lightly crushed

Salt and black pepper

2-3 large maris piper potatoes (300g), peeled and sliced very finely, ideally on a mandoline

1 small-medium celeriac (600g), peeled and sliced very finely, ideally on a mandoline

Put the prunes in a bowl, add the brandy or calvados and leave to soak overnight.

Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Heat the vegetable oil in a large, heavy-based casserole or similar, then brown the diced venison, in batches if need be, until golden all over. Turn the heat under the pan to low, then add the onions and garlic, and sweat, stirring regularly, until tender.

Turn up the heat again, add the wine and cook until the liquid has reduced by two-thirds. Pour in all but two tablespoons of the stock (you’ll use the rest to finish), and add half the rosemary, the crushed juniper berries, a few turns of black pepper and a pinch of salt. Transfer to the hot oven and leave to cook for three to four hours, until the venison is very tender and flakes apart easily. Remove and leave to cool slightly, then pick out and discard the juniper berries.

Turn up the oven to 210C (190C fan)/410F/gas 6½. Drain the prunes (save the boozy liquid for a cocktail or an after-dinner digestif), stir the fruit into the stew, then neatly arrange the potato and celeriac slices on top, overlapping the slices as you go. Scatter over the leaves from the remaining rosemary sprig.

Using a pastry brush, glaze the potato and celeriac topping with the reserved stock, then bake for 40-50 minutes more, until the potato and celeriac are coloured and tender. Remove, leave to rest for at least 15 minutes, then serve, ideally with some wilted greens on the side.